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Strong Surf and Dangerous Rip Currents

 Deanna Fene     Created: 8/22/2009 10:13:55 PM    Updated: 8/22/2009 10:28:42 PM
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JACKSONVILLE BEACH, FL -- The strong surf and dangerous rip currents are keeping beach goers out of the ocean, but for surfers it's a different story. They are flocking to Jacksonville's beaches.

"These storms turn up a lot of sand and create sand bars and rip currents form where there's a weak spot in the sand bar," said Captain Thomas Wright with Jacksonville Beach Ocean Rescue.

While Hurricane Bill is to blame for strong rip currents, surfers credit Bill with the big waves. Surfers are coming from all over to ride the waves. One couple drove 14-hours from Louisiana. "We saw 9-foot waves and he was like, 'baby get in the car.' We loaded up and packed my house in an hour," said surfer Tonya Boudreaus.

"14-hours and 800-miles from Louisiana to catch some awesome surf," said surfer Ben Bodin.

The rough water may be great for surfers, but not so great for children and those who can't swim well. "You want to keep from turning your back on the water. Parents, accompany small children if you go into the water. Take them by the hand. I would recommend only knee deep water or less," said Captain Wright.

There are plenty of people enjoying the beach without getting into the water, and plenty of surfers in the water waiting and hoping to catch the big one.

"It's great. Rip currents are strong so if you don't know what you're doing it's probably best to stay out of the water, but surf's up man and it's great," said Bodin.

It was a red flag warning day at lifeguard stands on Saturday and it is expected to be once again on Sunday.

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